Wednesday, August 20, 2014

A Review of Fins for Scuba Diving and Snorkeling




You can be forgiven if you think that choosing a pair of fins for scuba diving should be an easy task. I used to think so. After nearly 40 years of diving, I am still learning about what kinds of fins work best for me in different situations. I’ve dove in markedly different environments over the years, ranging from diving under the ice in Antarctica, to the cold temperate waters of northern California, to tropical diving around the world. I've gone from carrying little gear; to SLR housings as a professional underwater photographer; to large 70-pound HDCAM and film housings while wearing a drysuit and using a rebreather.  My diving has ranged from carrying this gear in still, clear tropical waters; diving with double tanks in 150 foot depths with heavy currents while carrying a 70-pound camera housing; to trying to keep up with sperm whales at the surface. I've learned some things along the way that no book or magazine will tell you. 



Every person is different, and fins for diving are perhaps the most personal and difficult choice of gear to get. I can only describe my situation and hope that this review helps other folks figure out what to look for in a diving fin. I got certified at the age of 15, I am in my mid-50s, and I’ve spent the past 25+ years working as a professional underwater photographer. I am short and round, I am in decent shape for swimming and diving, but I am 30 to 40 pounds over my ideal weight. I swim regularly at a local pool (about 1.1 miles every other day) but that has not been enough to combat my bad food habits. I have small feet and short legs compared to giant white males but my feet are wide. I am 5 feet six inches tall, my feet are size 7-1/2 and I prefer New Balance shoes since I can get them in a wide EE size.



It's ridiculously difficult to find important information on fins. One of the criteria for choosing fins is how heavy they are. If two fins are equal in other ways, I would prefer fins that are lighter, purely because I need to minimize the weight of my luggage to avoid excess baggage fees. I was surprised that many manufacturer's websites do NOT list the weight of their fins with their products. For instance, Scubapro has a lineup of very popular fins, but their website does NOT list the weight of their fins (or other specifications such as length of the blade). In order to find the weight of these fins, I had weigh them myself. I couldn't find any website that listed the weight of these fins. For some manufacturer's fins, I could go to the Leisurepro website and dig down to find this information. I did weigh every fin that I personally tested. 

I undertook this review because I wanted to know what the dang fin weighs, see how it fits on a real person, get a sense of how fast or slow it is, and get a sense of how maneuverable the fins are. In the past two years, I spent hundreds of dollars buying fins (on sale) from LeisurePro and searching local dive stores' clearance bins (the stores ranged from my home base in Monterey to as far afield as Bali, Maui, and West Palm Beach). I have tried out and weighed about a dozen pairs of fins, and I've preliminarily settled on about three favorite styles which I will use for various types of trips: classic warm-water coral reef trips where one does a lot of macro photos and needs to maneuver as well as swim in currents; whale and dolphin trips where one needs speed above all else; and cold-water trips (classic diving on reefs only; forget cold-water speed swimming in a drysuit!).

In the past months, as my plan for this review became clearer, I wrote to several diving manufacturers to ask them to supply their best fins for this review. The good folks at Mares, ScubaPro, and Sherwood recognized the value of such an article (as well as my 25-year history in this industry) and supplied me with a few of their models of fins to test. They were quite generous in supplying the gear, and I give them my thanks. Manufacturers who support reviews like this obviously want to get the information out there and realize that they have great products. I wanted to test some of Oceanic and Aqua Lung's fins, but they ignored my requests. This article is a work in progress; I'd welcome trying out just about any fin and if you are a manufacturer who would like their fins included, please contact me.


I've had a few learning experiences over the years, and I would like to share those first. 

When I started working as an underwater photographer, I traveled all over the world to tropical locations. I preferred full foot fins for the beginning of my career. As an underwater photographer, I needed fins that were easy to carry around, were powerful enough to let me photograph while swimming against currents, were light for travel, and let me maneuver easily to get into position underwater. I used Cressi's full foot Free Frog fins during this period. They were relatively light (1 lb 12 oz per fin), fit my feet well, gave me enough power to swim against currents (I was carrying still cameras and strobes, not bulky film housings), and allowed me to maneuver underwater just fine. They held up through years of tropical diving and were a great combination of letting me maneuver around a reef, ease of using them, and powering in strong currents.

Swimming with a bulky HDCAM housing, photos by James Watt
Starting in 2001, I started shooting video underwater with a large, bulky 70-pound housing that had an early Sony HDCAM professional HD camera in it. I then started diving with an Inspiration rebreather. I got certified with this rebreather in Mexico, then did some diving at Cocos Island with my very large HDCAM housing. Until then, I had always done my tropical diving with my trusty Cressi Free Frog full-foot fins.

I discovered, when diving with this rebreather and still camera housings off Cocos Island with my friends Howard Hall and Bob Cranston, that my Cressi full foot Free Frog fins were not capable of giving me enough power to get me through the water with a bulky rebreather on my back. These fins were just barely adequate.

Swimming with a bulky HDCAM housing, photos by James Watt

I later had to keep up with diving officer Doug Kesling and his crew at the University of North Carolina, diving with double tanks at 150 foot depths for long periods, battling strong currents and carrying a large HDCAM housing, using these same Cressi Free Frog fins. It was nearly impossible – the fins just weren't powerful enough. I also caught a ton of flak from the crew of the NOAA research vessel for not having foot protection when walking on deck – they required adequate foot protection when walking on the deck of the boat. Rubber sole booties were barely acceptable, and fin socks were not acceptable. I had to wear booties to cross the deck, jump in the water, take my booties off, and store them in my BC pockets – a huge pain in the butt. I should have just brought some open-heel fins. With the bulk of a rebreather or double tanks, and large video housings, I quickly learned that full foot fins were not powerful enough. I needed to graduate to powerful, open heel fins.  
 
For these reasons, since I've started carrying heavier and bulkier gear and diving in different situations, I've found that open-heel fins are preferable to full-foot fins in most diving situations, even tropical diving. I have always felt, and still do, that full foot fins (which are shaped to fit a bare foot) offer more speed than open-heel fins (which have larger pockets to fit diving booties with rubber soles). However, when I am walking across the deck of a boat, walking back up a coral rubble beach of Bali, or just getting ready to dive off a small dive tender – open-heel fins make a lot more sense to me now than before. Being able to wear thick neoprene socks or booties to protect my feet in all these situations is a huge plus over having bare feet.

I am not a fan of booties, however. In my late thirties, I had a job filming mangroves in Bonaire using a large film camera. I wore some booties that zipped up the ankle. They were not particularly tight, but they nevertheless caused incredible pain when I was filming mangroves in Bonaire. This had not happened to me before. Just a few months before that, however, I had tried downhill skiing, and wearing the boots for those skis caused me similar incredible, debilitating pain. I believe that my feet widened as I aged and gained weight. Because of the problems with my booties (I had brought only open-heel fins, realizing that I would be tramping through mangroves), I bought some inexpensive snorkeling fins in town. I realized quickly that these fins really, really sucked. I won’t name the brand or model, but these are inexpensive fins marketed toward beginning snorkelers. The moral of the story is that serious divers, who are carrying a great deal of bulky gear on them that creates water resistance, need to find fins that are professional grade. Don’t get fins meant for novice snorkelers at the ABC shop in Maui and expect those fins to work well. These flimsy fins are downright dangerous, since you won’t be able to swim against the slightest current to get back to your boat.

My pair of very well-used Henderson Microprene socks.  Thanks, Henderson!
Because my feet are so sensitive to booties that are tight, I use booties that are ankle-high rather than the ones that zip up past the ankle (I prefer neoprene slippers, not booties that are tight and inflexible). I test them before bringing them on any trip, to make sure that they do not constrict my feet. I like the Tilos booties that I have now, but I still get foot cramps and pain when swimming with them. If I can get by without using booties, I much prefer wearing thin neoprene socks, that protect my feet from blisters but don't put any pressure whatsoever on my feet. I've been using Henderson's great Microprene Fin Socks for years and years.




My good friend Douglas Seifert invited me on a trip to swim with sperm whales in Dominica in 2010. I learned, during this trip that involved trying to keep up with pods of whales (and the speedy Douglas!), that open heel fins, with lycra socks under a pair of booties, was the best combination for me in this situation of intense, all-day, frantic swimming. Full foot fins had always worked for me in the past in this situation – even with weeks of swimming with dolphins in the Bahamas Banks in the early days. However, as I aged, I had to take care of my feet more. Now, trying to swim too much with full foot fins, even with a lycra sock, causes a blister almost immediately. Almost nothing is worse than a blister on your foot during a diving trip. It will cause you to sit out the rest of the trip, and so I take great care now to wear Henderson Microprene fin socks (or lycra socks) under booties, along with open-heel fins (not full foot). I discovered the best pair of open-heel fins for this kind of fast snorkeling by doing this review – the surprising light, speedy Sherwood Elite open-heel fins. I discuss these fins in more detail below.

I also dive a great deal in cold water. I live on Monterey Bay in California, and the water temperature here ranges from 45 to 55 degrees F. It's cold, and I always wear a drysuit when diving here. Diving in northern California waters was great practice for my diving in Antarctica in 1997 through 2001, and later in 2008 and 2009. I used Cressi full-foot Frog fins for all of my diving in Antarctica in 1997 through 2001. They worked fine but are outdated. In recent years I have used Scubapro Twin Jet split fins (open heel) with my drysuit. I've been happy with the Twin Jet fins. They are floppy, not stiff, but the foot pocket is super-comfortable over my drysuit booties. I have been interested in how these Twin Jet fins compare to other open-heel fins.


Split Fins verus Conventional Fins:
I also wanted to see how split fins compare to conventional fins. We photographers need power sometimes, but we also need our fins to be flexible so that we can position ourselves easily and without throwing up a lot of sand. I have noticed that many divers with split fins swim too close to the bottom for some reason, kicking up clouds of sand behind them.  I have heard that with split fins, divers should use a smaller, more frequent flutter kick for maximum performance.

I mentioned buying fins from dive stores' bargain bins – I likely won't be doing this in the future. I bought a pair of split fins and a pair of conventional fins in the past two years, and they were so bad that I can't use them. One was a split fin, open heel design that has good reviews online. The split fins were stiff. I found that they work fine when swimming laps and sightseeing, but they were so stiff that I could not maneuver with them. With any kind of fin, as a photographer, I need fins that allow me to swim against currents, but just as importantly, I need fins that will accommodate a slow style of drifting and maneuvering. Photographers will swim a bit, notice a subject, then have to turn around or back up using a backwards stroke of the fin. The Scubapro Twin Jet fins allow me to do this; the bargain bin split fins did not.

My friend Alan Studley mentions: 
You didn't mention the Cave kick, which is a modified frog kick...I mention the Cave kick because it is very efficient for long swims. I can go for hours without low back pain.
In my recent course, I mentioned the efficiency of the Cave kick to a student who was large and the same height as me. He was always lagging behind with his traditional Flutter kick. So the second day he tried the Cave Kick and was keeping up with me and with much less effort.  Cave kickers usually use a Stiff blade fin vs Splits. I've used the Atomic Split and they work fine when Cave Kicking.


Some fins are just too stiff and do not work for me in any way. I bought a pair of flourescent green conventional (not split fin) open-heel fins from a local dive store. These were from a very well-known manufacturer of diving fins. Here's what I wrote in my notes: "Tried them in the pool twice over six months to be sure. Seems to give a lot of power and maneuverability but is also a bit stiff, very hard on the knees, when diving with a drysuit. Could not swim with these in the pool, just too heavy and stiff. Worst fins ever, don't name them. Tried swimming underwater with them, a little better but still slow. Very stiff, hurt my knees, did not swim well with them. Size Small fit my feet with booties perfectly" 

About sizing of fins: Most manufacturer's websites and the Leisurepro website list US shoe sizes matched up with sizes Small, Medium, Large, and Extra Large. These tables don't specify if the sizes work if wearing a bootie or drysuit bootie. I have a size small foot (US men's 7.5). I found that with a dive bootie, most fins (Mares, Sherwood Elite, Scubapro Twin Jets) match my shoe size. In other words, my shoe size of 7.5 with a bootie corresponds to a size small open-heel fin for most fins. My drysuit booties are much larger than my wetsuit booties, and fins that are another size or even two sizes up work with my drysuit (eg size Medium or Large in the Scubapro Twin Jets work with my drysuit booties).

How the fins fit is obviously extremely important.  My size 7.5 foot in a bootie or thick neoprene sock would fit in most fins that are called size Small by the manufacturer.  Some fins are sized larger, so that a size small for them might be a size Medium  for others.  For instance, I found the Sherwood Elite fins size Small to fit my feet with booties just fine.  The Apollo fins in size Medium were way too big for my feet with booties, and in my opinion should be called size Large.  I have noted if fins are a "standard" fit or oversized. 

Spring Straps versus Rubber Straps:
Some fins have posts on them which allow you to put on stainless steel spring straps instead of rubber straps. I like these steel spring straps, and I commend those manufacturers who make them and who make their fins with the post, thereby making it easy for divers to put in after-market spring straps. For instance, the Sherwood Elite fins come with their own rubber straps and with the proper type of post to mount other straps on them. I was able to put on EZ Spring straps (from leisurepro.com) which I preferred over their stock rubber straps. Scubapro's fins do NOT have these posts, but their stainless steel spring straps (from their Twin Jet Max fins) could fit into the Sherwood Elite fins since they had the same size buckle (which goes over the post). The Atomic's buckle arrangement does sort of fit onto the “standard” post of the Sherwoods but not well or elegantly. Atomic fins have a one-off arrangement where the entire buckle comes off, not a quick release.


Testing fins:
These tests are largely subjective, but I did try to test the fins consistently. I discovered a pool close to the Monterey area where I was able to swim laps consistently in the past year. After a couple months of swimming a standard routine (three sets of 400 yards using exercise fins, and two sets of 400 yards swimming underwater and using the crawl stroke), I felt that I was in decent shape and would not get much faster. For my normal swimming with fins, I used a pair of “Pod” fins, which are simple fins used for exercise and boogie-boarding (also called bodyboarding). These are short-bladed fins made of stiff rubber.


I tested each pair of fins two or three times. I swam a quarter mile with the Pod fins first to warm up, then swam a quarter mile with the test fins, timing myself. I strived to be as consistent as possible when swimming; but in the end, the times with the fins are subjective. I rate the fins as 0, +1, +2, or -1; with “0” based on swimming times with the Pod fins. Please keep in mind that body shape and height is likely a large factor in how fins work for each person. I am a short, round guy who is not particularly athletic but nevertheless has fairly strong legs. If you are a tall, slim, collegiate swimmer, then the fins that work best for me may not work well for you. Taller folks might prefer fins that are longer than the ones that worked well for me. 

I did find that some fins just didn't work well for me at all. I have purposely declined to name these fins and their makers by name. I have found that folks in the diving industry don't take criticism well. This attitude is regrettable – enlightened makers of dive gear should welcome honest and constructive criticism of their gear. Fortunately, most divers and photographers like my reviews a great deal because they are honest and informative.


Here's a listing of the fins that I have tested to date, including the weight per single fin, price (at leisurepro.com unless otherwise stated); speed rating (based on time to swim a quarter mile); buoyancy; how the fins fit; and miscellaneous observations.


Pod bodyboarding fins; 1 lb 5 oz; $40 at an Oahu North Shore surf shop; +0 (baseline) speed rating; positive buoyancy; standard fit; these are considered “beginners bodyboarding fins and are good for exercise swimming because they are not too stiff." I discuss bodyboarding fins in another blog post. These fins float, which is a good thing for surfing but a bad thing for diving. I always prefer fins to sink rather than float, so that I can place them on the seafloor if needed and count on them to stay there.  From http://www.churchillfinsreview.com/what-are-the-best-bodyboarding-fins-to-buy/ : Smaller training fins provide resistance without overloading joints, ligaments and tendons. They also help shift effort to the foot, increasing leg strength by encouraging propulsion with a leg kick in the form of a pedaling motion that’s the same as a flutter kick without a fin.



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Open-Heel Fins: 

Sherwood open-heel Elite fins; 1 lb 8oz; $99 at scuba.com; +3 speed rating; negatively buoyant; standard fit. I was very impressed with these fins. They are the lightest open-heel fins that I have seen. They were super easy to get used to and were the fastest yet in the water. The foot pocket is a bit hard and narrow. With booties, I started getting foot cramps both times that I tested the fins. My fins came with rubber straps that had nice quick release buckles on them, but were not adjustable. They were a little tight when I wore booties, but when I wore these fins with only Henderson Microprene fin socks, these fins felt pretty good (the hard foot pocket was still hard).

I later used these fins with thicker neoprene socks and with EZ spring straps from Leisurepro. I was pretty happy with this combination.  These fins are fast, fairly stiff, but I seem to be able to maneuver in them. I like them a lot and may use them for tropical AND fast snorkeling (eg whale sharks, whales) with thicker fin socks (not booties).

The Sherwood Elite fins are now my first choice for snorkeling and diving in tropical waters, with thicker wetsuit socks or booties.  I look forward to trying a pair of these in size Large, to see how they work with my drysuit.  I like the fact that these fins come with a standard post so I could mount EZ spring straps on them. 




The Sherwood Elite fins have what I believe are "standard" post and buckles.  They come with silicone straps.  I found that EZ spring straps from Leisurepro fit these fins just fine.  I also found that spring straps from Scubapro Twin Jet Max fins fit the Sherwood Elite buckles. 


ScubaPro Twin Jet open-heel Split Fins in black; 2 lb 0 oz; $169; -1 speed rating (slower than baseline); standard fit. I've had a pair of these fins in gray, size Large, for several years. I use them with my drysuit; they are extremely comfortable. They let me swim around in my drysuit without creating pains in my knees. My feeling prior to testing these is that they were comfortable but a bit slow, and my testing bears this out. I tested the Medium size, which were a bit large for my foot in a bootie. Swimming with these is slow but very pleasant. I felt like I was hardly using any effort, but I was still tired after swimming 400 yards. One strange thing is that my thighs cramped up almost as soon as I started moving around in these fins, something which did not happen with any other fins so far. Seems to give enough power and is very maneuverable. Very comfortable to put on and wear. The rubber strap with the quick-snap buckle system has worked well for me for years.
These fins came with traditional adjustable rubber straps, but I can see that there are stainless steel straps that fit the buckles on these Twin Jets. 
 



The buckle on the Twin Jet fins are non-standard.  There are no posts, so you can't add "standard" spring straps from other companies.  I have seen spring straps made specifically to fit Twin Jet fins.




These fins were black in color. Back in 2001, Sergio Angelini, a longtime star engineer, designer, and executive in the diving industry (who has helped me a great deal over the years – thanks Sergio!) gave me some Twin Jet fins, which were brand new at the time. Here's what he wrote, “I am sending you out two sets of fins. There is a soft version (blue or grey...) and a stiff version (black). Typically, people not used to the split fin technology will immediately love the black, and maybe be perplexed by the soft version. But once you get used to them, the soft ones are better: faster, more efficient, more comfortable. Some people use the black for cold water diving with lots of gear that causes drag, and the soft ones in warm water. I myself use the soft ones, and I dive with drysuit, pony bottle strapped to the front left, 3 big lights strapped to the front right, and we have very big currents ....  Both pairs will be size L, which will definitely fit over your drysuit.

“Of the Three Colors, the Black Fins are the most Rigid and offer a more traditional fin experience. The Black Fins are slightly negatively buoyant. The Blue Fins model is made of a more buoyant and flexible compound than the black models. This allows you to achieve the most Bang-for-your-Kicking Buck. These fins are slightly positively buoyant. The Yellow Fin option is made of a compound similar to the Blue model, but offers the greatest opportunity for you to be seen underwater. The Yellow fins are slightly positively buoyant.”

This Twin Jet fin is size Large.  It is much too large for my normal dive bootie, but it fits my drysuit bootie just fine.  I consider these fins to be normal in terms of standard sizes, meaning a size small would probably be appropriate for my foot in a dive bootie. 


I checked with Scubapro.  They no longer make the gray version, but still make the yellow and blue colors.  These fins are indeed more flexible, if the above comments still apply. I do a lot of shark diving trips, where the leaders of the trips only allow all-black or all-dark diving gear – so using fins that are yellow or have bright colors is not a good option. On the other hand, long, bright yellow fins make a good signaling device when you are in the middle of the open ocean (say, at Cocos Island) and drifting away from the dive tender or mother ship.



Scubapro Twin Jet Max open-heel Split Fins; 2 lb 8 oz per fin; $189; -0.5 speed rating (slower than baseline); standard fit. These are a stiffer version of the Twin Jet series. They came in a nice mesh bag, with super-comfortable stainless steel straps. The size Mediums were just a bit large for my feet with booties; they fit my drysuit booties well. A pair of these fins will weigh 5 pounds, which is a fair amount of weight for fins (in comparison, a pair of Sherwood Elite fins, size Small, would weigh only 3 pounds). Swimming with these fins felt effortless, but fairly slow, coming in at 10 seconds slower than my standard Pod fins. Given the weight difference and my sense that these stiffer split fins won't maneuver as well, I'd choose the older Twin Jet fins over these for drysuit diving.


The Twin Jet Max fins do offer what look like standard posts to attach spring straps from other companies.  However, the posts were just slightly too large to fit the EZ spring straps that I bought from Leisurepro.  The Twin Jet Max fins did come with their own spring straps, which I could use on the Sherwood Elite fins because the buckles --not the posts -- fit together. 

Atomic open-heel split fins: 2 lb 7 oz per fin; $209; +1 speed rating; positively buoyant; standard fit.  Upon first seeing these fins, I expected them to be slow.  I was wrong.  They are pretty heavy out of the water (a pair of fins will weigh almost 5 pounds); but once in the water, they are comfortable and pretty fast.  Here are my notes after using them a couple of times: I really liked these after trying them.  Pretty fast, powerful, and maneuverable. 

The post for a strap on the Atomic fins looks like a standard one -- but it is not...I was not able to put an EZ spring strap on the fin. 

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Full Foot Fins:

Mares Plana Avanti Quattro Power full foot fin; 2 lb 2 oz; $144; +2.5 speed rating; negative buoyancy. I tested these twice over six months. These are long, heavy full foot fins. The fins are 29" long, and the size 8-9 fit me pretty well (just slightly large) with lycra socks. These fins are great, although heavy and stiff, for tropical diving. They are fast and powerful. Using these fins gave me foot cramps when I tried them first, but I did not get much discomfort when trying them again six months later. I was able to shave 20 seconds off the normal time with the Avanti Quattro Power fins and it would have been even more time (faster) if I did not have to turn around at the ends of the pools each lap. I found the fins to be extremely fast and powerful, but also very tiring to use. Someone who has longer and more powerful legs than me will love these fins.


Cressi Free Frog full-foot fins; 1 lb 12 oz; $34 at scubastore.com; +1 speed rating; negative buoyancy; fins are 25 inches long and fairly flexible. Using the Free Frog fins, I was able to go slightly faster that I was with the Pod fins. It took a bit longer to get moving, but once I got moving, I moved slightly faster. My legs felt more tired. Part of this was due to the bad fit of the Free Frog fins; they were not tight on my feet. These full foot fins can be hard to get on and off quickly. After using the longer fins, using the Pod fins almost felt like I had nothing on, and that they were not doing anything. These fins have been around a long time and I used them with success for years. However, I'd recommend newer models of full-foot fins rather than buying these, even though the price is low.



Atomic full-foot Split fins; 1 lb 7 oz; $89; +2 speed rating. The Atomic full foot split fins were very stiff, but good after I got used to them. It took a while to get up to speed, but then they were fast and efficient. Divers interested in ordering these fins should order a size up. I ordered a size 7.5-8 but the fins were a bit too tight for my feet. I'd like to try a size up with lycra socks, and to re-measure my swimming time with these fins.




Mystery Brand Split Fins that I Do NOT recommend:

I've bought two sets of fins by known, famous manufacturers from the bargain bins of dive stores.  Here's a pair of fins that I will be putting in the trash.  I bought these in a dive shop in West Palm Beach.  They allowed me to swim in a straight line, but they were absolute impossible to use when I was underwater and trying to maneuver.  I have never used any fins that were so problematic underwater.  I've covered the name of the fins so the manufacturer doesn't take offense at this post.  Sorry, these fins just did not work for me. 

Mystery split fins -- these would not allow me to manuever underwater at all. 

Mystery” flourescent green open-heel fins from a famous brand; $40 at Bamboo Reef's clearance bin; could not finish 400 yards with these; negative buoyancy; standard fit. These fins came in a size Small, which fit my foot in booties just fine. I had high hopes for them. Unfortunately, they just weren't for me. My notes: Seems to give a lot of power and maneuverability but is also a bit stiff, hard on the knees, when diving with a drysuit. could not swim with these in the pool, just too heavy and stiff. Worst fins ever, don't name them. Tried swimming underwater with them, a little better but still slow. Had a bad experience using them with drysuit in Channel Islands. Very stiff, hurt my knees, did not swim well with them.


To come:
Apollo Biofin Pro with stainless steel straps; 3 lb 2 oz per fin; $200 or so; speed rating to be tested; oversized by one size (+1). I have a pair of these fins in size Medium. The size Medium is pretty big – a bit too big for using in a wetsuit bootie; and a bit too small to use in my drysuit booties. Twin blade, but quite manueverable. These are heavy fins. I wore these for a while in the tropics, but the weight is too much for me to travel with. They've therefore been sitting in my garage for several years. Perhaps Apollo will allow me to try out a pair of their size Small fins, but I doubt it.
In summary: The Apollo fins are oversize -- their size Mediums are equivalent to size Large fins from other companies.  They are the heaviest fins around.  They do offer a stainless steel strap, but it attaches using screws on the fine -- a proprietary attachment.  You therefore can't use other companies' spring straps on these fins nor can you use the spring straps on other fins.  


The Apollo fins are oversize -- these are size Medium and are equivalent to most size Large fins. 


















Note the stainless steel strap uses a proprietary attachment. 














Mares Avanti Quattro pair full foot (black); to come. 



Scubapro Nova Seawing open-heel Split Fins; 2 lb 2 oz per fin in size L; $139; speed rating to be tested; standard size.  


The Nova Seawing fins do not seem to have standard buckles.  They do seem to have posts, but I did not want to pop open the buckle cover to see if I could get the straps and buckles off.  



Tuesday, August 19, 2014

Weekly Series Number Nine: Photographs of Big Waves on the North Shore



I've always been amazed by photographs of big waves and surf.

Back in 2003, my friend Jim Watt learned about my interest in photographing big waves, and invited me to join him on the North Shore of Oahu to photograph big waves breaking in Waimea Bay.  He had gone there a few times before and worked out the right times to be there to see big waves.  Like all good surfers, Jimmie followed weather, buoy, and tide reports, and gave me a ring when he figured it was a good time to come out.  My assistant at the time, Mike Ready, and I flew out to Oahu and met Jim (thanks Jim, we had some good times and you were so generous with your time and conversations). 

I've been to Oahu before but had not spent much time on the North Shore, other than consuming the famous shaved ices at Matsumoto's, in the surf and North Shore town of Haleiwa.  There are no "big" or "name brand" hotels on the North Shore.  It's about an hour drive from Honolulu, and even now, the North Shore feels much more peaceful and countrified than the city of Honolulu.   That's a plus, but everything has both advantages and disadvantages.

One disadvantage was that we had no choice but to stay in a flea-ridden, seemingly dangerous set of shacks near Waimea Bay.  I think it was called "Surfers Paradise"; it was not expensive, but it was not a desirable place either.  Rumors abounded of an Italian photographer who had spent the past three months there, photographing surf and surfers, and had just days before had all his camera gear and even worse -- his entire bag of exposed film -- stolen.  If there were bedbugs anywhere, then this place would have had bedbugs. We were careful not to show off our camera gear and managed to get some sleep.  By the way, the Foodland grocery store on the North Shore is nothing short of a miraculous paradise of food and custom-made sandwiches. And the North Shore itself is incredible -- just a few short miles of beach, usually not too crowded, a small road going through it -- boasting the names of a dozen world famous surf spots. 

As it turned out, I got a few decent shots from that trip, but nothing spectacular.  I realized that if I really wanted to get good wave shots, I'd need to rent a room and spend more than a few days there.   In November and December of 2008, I rented a two bedroom condo in the town of Wailua on the North Shore from Tom Walsh, the brother of my good friend Dan Walsh (thanks for putting up with me, Tom).  This condo was on the seventh floor of a drab building in an area nicknamed "Concrete City."  The entire area was depressing -- but convenient to all the famed surf spots of the North Shore.  My living room was pleasant, with a view of the ocean and a nice breeze.  Luckily Tom had loaned me a futon to sleep on.  My friend Eric Cheng visited, I put him in the furniture-less, view-less back bedroom, and he did not bat an eye.  That guy can put up with anything.  I'd like to tie him up to a chair and take away anything computer or smartphone related, though, and then see him sweat! 

Oh, by the way, once you are near Waimea Bay, photographing the waves could not be easier.   Dozens of photographers, on days that the swell and weather is right, will gather on the north side of the road that passes Waimea Bay.  It could not be easier; you just have to get the timing right.  You are NOT in the water -- you are on a hill overlooking Waimea Bay, shooting the waves with a long lens.  Starting at sunrise, the sun will light up the waves dramatically.  I like shooting waves from the water, but there's no effing way I was going anywhere near big waves in Waimea or anywhere else.  I am not stupid; like Clint Eastwood says, "a man has to know his limitations."  



In 2008 and before, I knew, without a doubt, that my office and my agents would license the resulting wave images and eventually make a profit.  I just needed to put in the time and money, and be reasonable with my expenses.  I did not stay in the Turtle Bay Hilton at $400 per night; I rented a condo for two months for $2400 or something like that.  I did not rent a convertible Mustang to drive around in; I rented a cheap compact from some place called "Car Rent 4 Less."  

I did not care that there were thousands and thousands of surf and wave shots already out there, many looking exactly like the ones I was going to shoot.  A big part of the business was and still is simply getting the images into distribution.  I was right; the resulting images have sold repeatedly, and I've made a profit on that particular trip.   Of course, that was not the real reason I went out there.  Being able to spend two months on the North Shore of Oahu, and justifying it financially, was very cool...and fun. 

I am sorry to say, though, that I can no longer depend on traveling to a place, taking great images, creating a photo story, and eventually making a profit on the resulting images.  The business has changed completely.  Just about all of my old magazine and book clients are gone.

Oh well.  The surf has been up at my local beach the past week, and I had two epic days of bodyboarding in the cold waters here.  I am always amazed at the big wave surfers that I saw in the North Shore and around California -- my limit is probably 6 or 8 foot waves.  I get plenty scared, with good reason, around even those relatively small waves.



Enabling Wifi Tethering on a Freedompop Galaxy S3 phone

Quick summary for anyone in a similar situation and wants to get wifi tethering to work on a FreedomPop Samsung Galaxy SIII  (S3) Phone:

This app from the Google Play Store worked for me.  I emailed the developer with my question, and he got back to me promptly, stating that his app should work on the S3 and he would refund my purchase or provide support if it did not.  You can't get any better than that!

Wifi Tether Router
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=net.snclab.wifitetherrouter&hl=en
website:
https://sites.google.com/site/wifitetherrouter/
The app costs $2.50

Here's the problem I encountered and some of the other solutions that I tried:
I have a Freedompop Galaxy S3 phone.  I bought it because the Freedompop representative in a woot.com product forum stated that the Galaxy S3 phone would allow wifi tethering.  The Freedompop FAQ pages also stated that the Galaxy S3 phone would allow wifi tethering.   Freedompop uses the Sprint network. 

I've attempted numerous times to enable wifi tethering on the phone using other software including the included Freedompop Wifi Tether app.

I believe that Freedompop needed to contact Sprint and ask them to allow this phone to allow wifi tethering.   Good luck with that.  FreedomPop's customer service is not exactly helpful.

I researched this issue for several hours and learned that this phone has Android 4.4.2 KitKat, which has some kind of hidden "KNOX" software that does not allow any normally-used wifi tethering apps to work. 

I have used Root Check, and it seems that the phone is rooted.  I have tried to remove the KNOX software using Terminal Emulator but I don't believe that did anything.  I've tried wifi-tether-Trevemod also which did not work and told me that there were errors and I should look at the log file -- then told me that the log file did not exist.  It seems that the app wifi-tether-Trevemod only works with phones up to Android 4.3. 

I also tried Foxfi and PDANet.  The phone did allow USB tethering using PDANet. 
With all the above wifi tethering apps (FreedomPop, Foxfi, TreveMod), here's what happened:

Under Settings-Connection, when I attempt to enable "FreedomPop hotspot"; I get the following error messages:
“hotspot error --
you are not subscribed to the hotspot service, do you want to see subscription options?
Cancel or OK.

Selecting OK gets:
"Welcome to self service" (grayed out).  Then:
Self Service: Information: sorry experienced a system problem during your task, please dial *2 from your Sprint phone or call custom care at 888-211-4727 from another phone to complete your task”

I tried calling Sprint customer service, and the agent told me that they could not help -- that FreedomPop had to set the phone up properly (provision it).

Before using the Wifi Tether Router app that works, you need to be sure that your phone is rooted.  My phone came rooted already.  Use the free app "Root Checker" to see if your phone is rooted.   I would not advise trying to "root" your phone if it is not already rooted.  Rooting your phone will void any warranty.

Friday, August 15, 2014

What to Know About Paper Shredders...Who Knew?

Life is getting more complicated.  Now I learned something new about paper shredders. 

I just bought my third shredder, from Costco.  My first two died.  The second one is a Royal as is my new one. 

First, if you buy a new Royal shredder, it won't look new.  I opened mine up and there were bits of paper already stuck in the shredder.  It worked fine and looked new otherwise.  I found this in an Amazon description:

" A few pieces of shredded paper may be found inside the shredder and the waste basket. This is normal. All Royal shredders are tested at the factory to insure quality."

I've also learned that you can only run paper shredders for three to six minutes at a time.  After this amount of time (which is often written on the back of shredders), you want to stop shredding to allow the motor to cool off.  Otherwise you may end up with a dead shredder. 

Here's what the Royal manual says:

The 1212X will automatically terminate power during any of the following abnormal situations:
1.  Operating the shredder at the maximum capacity continuously for a
prolonged period of time....
2. Exceeding the shredding capacity..., or if the paper is not fed squarely into the
feed opening.

Both abnormal operations may result in the activation of the automatic thermal motor overload
protection circuit, which terminates the power to the unit.

In case of a major paper jam:

1.  Unplug the power cord from the AC outlet and wait at least 25 minutes
for the thermal overload protection circuit to reset.

2.  Plug the power cord back into the AC outlet and press the ON/OFF button.  Press the Reverse Button and pull the remaining paper out of the cutters.

3.  With the Main Switch in the
auto position and the feed opening clear,
you are now ready to resume normal shredding. 


I've had a shredder seemingly die, then work again after a few days.  The above explains this mysterious behavior.  There's some kind of devilishly complicated "thermal protection motor overload protection circuit" that keeps the machine turned off until the machine has determined that it has rested long enough. 


How to set up Wifi Tethering on a FreedomPop Evo Design 4G Phone

I've discussed FreedomPop and their services in past blog posts.  I still recommend them although you have to be careful in dealing with them.  My past blog posts give some warnings. 

I've had a FreedomPop Evo Design 4G Phone for several months now, and it is pretty much useless for voice calls.  I don't text much, but I have found that the phone gets my emails (it uses the Sprint network) well.  FreedomPop initially advertised that the phone would allow wifi tethering, but once I got the phone, they changed their policy stating that wifi tethering was not available.  I bought the phone for $100 and was a beta user.  Because of the problems with voice calling and the short battery life (the battery lasts less than 24 hours with minimal use); I hardly ever use the phone. 

Just today, however, I ran across the item below in a forum.  I tried it, and it works great!  I now can use my FreedomPop Evo Design 4G Phone as a wifi hotspot.  I get 500Mb of 3G/4G data free per month, and I can use that data when traveling, on any other device (laptop, iPad, etc) that needs a wifi or internet connection. 

Thanks, Adolfo and the guy who posted these instructions initially:

How to set up Wifi Tethering
Post by asdfasdf on Mon Nov 04, 2013 6:04 pm

Per Adolfo on the FP Facebook page. Edited from comments below too.

1) Open the "WiFi Tether" app that came stock.
2) Tap the menu key, select "Settings"
3) On the settings screen, change "Change Setup-Method" to "Netd (master)"
4) Uncheck "WiFi-driver reload 2"
5) Check "WiFi-driver reload"
6) Scroll down and select Change LAN, select "172.20.21.0/24"
7) For security, change the SSID, enable WiFi-Encryption, and set the passphrase. 

Though not all of these steps may be necessary, they should make it work for anyone.
Good luck!



Wednesday, July 23, 2014

I Try to Be Nice, Really, But....

I mentioned in an earlier blog post (or perhaps in my Facebook page) that I get few enough letters from kids now that I try to respond to them.  In the past, it was simply impossible to reply to all of them.  Oh, here's the earlier blog post: 

http://norbertwu.blogspot.com/2014/06/fan-mail-from-kids-always-brightens-my.html




I recently sent a card and a note to a Jacob, who wrote me and had an address of "400 Deering Avenue, Portland, ME  04103." 
The card was returned to me with a note: "need full name" with the standard USPS label of "return to sender, not deliverable as addressed."  
I hate having my efforts wasted like this, so I looked the address up.  It belongs to Temple Beth El:  Temple Beth El is a welcoming congregation of over 300 families in Portland, Maine, affiliated with United Synagogue of Conservative Judaism. TBE is an open and inviting kehilla (community) in which each congregant can find an opportunity for individually meaningful religious expression. 
Hey, Temple Beth El -- maybe one of your folks can let Jacob see that I replied to him.  Hey, I tried.  

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Weekly Series Number Eight: Favorite Images

School of Scalloped Hammerhead Sharks, Cocos Island, Costa Rica:



Thanks to all of you for your comments about my weekly series, where I show and talk about the stories behind some of my favorite images.  I've been trying to start with images from my early days, and then progress chronologically.

I remember seeing the first images of these schools of scalloped hammerhead sharks from Cocos Island (taken by a friend and mentor, Marty Snyderman).  Marty was one of the first underwater photographers to spend significant time at Cocos Island, and I saw his images back in the late 1980s as I was just starting to seriously take underwater photographs professionally.  I was lucky enough to be able to go out with a couple of the diving vessels that visited this remote island.  These images were taken on my first trip out there, aboard the Okeanos Aggressor.  I later visited Cocos Island a few more times, all on the vessel Undersea Hunter.   As far as I know, both vessels still visit Cocos Island, and despite all the hunting of sharks for their fins, these schools of hammerhead sharks can still be seen out there.



I had gotten tips from my friends (and bosses, when I worked on their films) Howard Hall and Bob Cranston.  This was in the days before relatively inexpensive rebreathers were available.  The trick, from what I gleaned, to getting images of these sharks was to get underneath them and to hold your breathe.  The instant you let out your breathe, then the entire school of sharks would scatter.  The school of sharks tended to swim around various underwater pinnacles near Cocos Island, hanging out around the thermocline, a pretty discrete boundary between warm, clear water and murkier, colder water.  The sharks seemed to like this boundary.  The boundary was generally right around 120 feet or so.

That first trip on the Okeanos Aggressor was something.  A group of divers from Boston had chartered the boat, but I had been able to get myself and my friend Peter Brueggeman on the trip.  Peter was a great friend and helpful to me underwater (and topside too!), and he had a great sense of humor and easygoing personality that helped offset my seriousness and antisocial behavior (I have really bad hearing, which contributes to my not enjoying conversations on dive boats -- I have a hearing aide but don't use it when I am on diving trips since it costs a lot when I forget I have it on and step into the water).  The funny thing about that trip was how nearly everyone in the group from Boston ended up romantically involved with someone else in the group.  There was a doctor who accidentally bumped into an old flame and rekindled the romance -- but also spent the entire trip anguishing over what would happen when he got back home and his wife found out about the affair.  There was a woman who targeted nearly every male on board and had a brief affair.  Peter and I were left alone, which was fine with me as I was more concerned about getting images.  I later discovered from one of the group that they thought that Peter and I were a gay couple!  This was pretty surprising to me.  It's happened to me a few times since, because I like to travel with my friends, and two guys traveling together must mean that they are gay, I guess.

I can remember the dives on that trip well.  Peter and I would go down a pinnacle called Dirty Rock, hang out at about 100 feet, looking off the pinnacle to catch a glimpse of sharks.  I'd see them infrequently, just at the edge of visibility, circling the pinnacle.  Once I caught a glimpse, I'd swim as fast as I could to the school, holding my breathe, and usually swimming upside down so I could see their silhouettes above me.  If I was lucky enough to find myself underneath the school of sharks, I'd have just a fleeting few seconds to snap a couple of exposures (using a Nikonos V camera loaded with 35mm film) before I'd have to let out a breathe.  The sharks would scatter at that point, and I'd look back the way I came to try to see the pinnacle.  Most of the time I'd see Peter's bright yellow fins, which were a lifesaver.  Thanks, Pete.

Getting back to the pinnacle was important; I sure did not want to lose track of where I was and have to surface in the middle of the usually-turbulent, rainy ocean off Cocos Island.  If I had not come back to where the other divers were, chances were good that the dive tenders would not see me when I surfaced, and I'd face a long time alone drifting.  That kind of scenario -- being lost by yourself, drifting away from your dive boat in stormy seas and low visibility -- is so frightening to me now that I probably would not do this kind of dive this way any longer. 

Sharks around the world have been targeted for years by fishermen who catch sharks only for their fins.  It's a tragedy.  The fins are valued as a delicacy by the Chinese (yes, I am Chinese-American) who make the fins into shark-fin soup.  Chinese folks try to serve shark-fin soup at wedding banquets, largely because it is very expensive, and serving your guests the most expensive dishes at a meal shows respect and courtesy.  This tradition is actually a relatively recent phenomenon, which has arised with the rise of the middle class in China.




The soup itself, and the cartilage from the shark fins, is pretty tasteless.  The shark fin part of the soup tastes like rubber, with almost no taste.  It's a real tragedy that sharks are being targeted for this fishery.  As apex predators, there just aren't that many sharks out there (they reproduce and grow relatively slowly compared to other fish); and they are being wiped out for this ridiculous and young tradition.


Of all the issues in marine conservation today, I believe that convincing the Chinese people to stop serving and eating shark fin soup is perhaps the only issue that can possibly be resolved.  I hope that we humans can stop this practice.  I don't think that we're going to solve much else, like global warming or the problem of plastic debris.